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SAM'S SOUTHERN EATERY: Southern cuisine off the skids

Louis Fowler / Red Dirt Report
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OKLAHOMA CITY – What culinary deceptions hath Satan laid out before God’s good consumers? Why is it that the most beatifically nectarous comestibles are always the ones that will seize our hearts in pain and send us straight to Hell? Why must a place like Sam’s Southern Eatery be a flash-fried Jezebel designed to tempt not only my tastebuds but my loins as well?

Cajun food is gonna kill you no matter what, we all know that. Is that part of the reason why it is so tempestuously delicious, like engaging in connubial bliss under the bleachers at a little league baseball game? It is the threat of the promise of the knowledge that no other digestible with murder you again and again and again like that perfectly seasoned and mostly breaded freshwater seafood will after one too many visits to places like the addictive Sam’s Southern Eatery that seem to make ever thing taste better than could ever be imagined?

Lord Jesus, give me the strumph to know my limits, in Your name I pray!

The regional chain Sam’s Southern Eatery, newly opened at 2336 NW 23rd St., has brought affordable, no-nonsense swampy goodness up north and while it can never truly compete with the Gates of Heaven that is the most holy Cajun King, hot damn, Sam’s does a good job of sticking to its own side of the bayou and frying up a wide variety of aquatic oddities for us po’ folks to devour en masse.

Seems as though most of the neighborhood beat us to it, however, because when my dining partner and I hit Sam’s last week, they were practically sold out of everything; no fried green tomatoes, no mac and cheese, no crab cakes and, for a sheer minute of terror, no fried oysters, but, thankfully, they found more in the back.

That there fulfilled my order of the Oyster Po’boy sandwich with fried okra ($7.99) alongside a bowl of hopefully steaming hot Sam’s Gumbo ($6.99), while my eatin’ pal put in for the 12-piece Jumbo Shrimp meal with French fries and red beans and rice ($12.99).

(Louis Fowler / Red Dirt Report)

Delivered to our table quicker than an eel sliding through a muddy creek-bed, the sheer volume of eats left our jaws dropped, which was actually a good thing, all the better to help shovel in this large amount of food.

Let’s start with the Oyster po’boy; while I expected some oyster slivers on a five inch baguette—the usual, nothing too fancy—imagine my surprise when, instead, I was delivered up this monster foot-long sammie absolutely stuffed with plump, juicy deep-fried oysters. The spicy breading sealed in beautifully that requisite muddy, earthy taste of each oyster, with a few splashes of Louisiana Hot Sauce to taste. If that’s what the Oyster Po’boy was like, Good God, can you imagine the Jumbo Shrimp Po’boy? Next time, fo’ reals.

My okra was crispy and crunchy while the gumbo was definitely sturdy, filled with hearty chunks of shrimp and okra, although it was served at room temp with was a little off-putting at first, but it worked within the context of the meal. (I will say this: I took it home as leftovers and, after a couple minutes in the microwave, made for a simply scrumptious breakfast—if only I had some grits to pour it on…)

Sam’s calls themselves the “home of the Jumbo Shrimp” and after taking a look at my buddy’s plate—they ain’t lying! These fat, overgrown monster “scrimps” were all but burying his fries, with portions ‘bout as big as my hand and twice as meaty; when you bit into these seafood delights, you’re immediately hit with a wave of freshness—these things were as firm and neoteric as the day they were caught, still bright pink with an avowed musculature that I’ve only encountered in the best seafood shacks down in the Gulf of Mexico. For the price, Sam’s truly is plating you down with some of the best shrimp on the market, the catch of the day.

But, as good as this all is, let’s not church up these revelations, people: prolonged exposure to Sam’s Southern Eatery will kill you. Their menu is an addictive assortment of some damn good, cardiac-arresting cajun cooking in the city (masquerading as fast food, mind you) and moderation just might be damn near impossible. Those are the risks you’re gonna have to take in your own hands, but what delicious risks they are.

Sam's Southern Eatery
2336 NW 23rd St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73107
Phone: (405) 605-5252

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About the Author

Louis Fowler

Güicho. Gadfly. Chicano. Choctaw. Cristero. Freelancer. Leftist. Activist. Vilified. PKD....

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About Red Dirt Report

Red Dirt Report was launched July 4, 2007 as an independent news website covering all manner of news, culture, entertainment and lifestyle stories that affect and interest Oklahoma readers and readers outside of our state. Our mission is to educate, promote civic engagement and discourse on public policy, government and politics. Our experienced journalists provided balanced in-depth coverage of news stories that affect Oklahomans. Our opinion/editorial stories come from a wide range of political view points. We carry out our mission by reporting, writing, and posting news and information. read more

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