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FOOD REVIEW: Hillbilly Po'Boys & Oysters

Liz Burleson / Red Dirt Report
Different delicious items served at Hillbilly Po' Boys & Oysters in OKC.
Rusty's Score
4
4 Rustys

OKLAHOMA CITY – As if on cue, just as I sat down at my table at Hillbilly Po’Boys & Oysters a train raced by along the tracks just a couple of yards from this new restaurant at 1 NW 9th Street.

Yes, the clickety-clack sound of a train going by as I stared up at posters of Johnny Cash, led me hum to myself – “I hear the train-a-comin’, it’s rollin’ round the bend …”

Yep, it added to the ambiance of Hillbilly’s, a cozy, rustic sort of place that takes the bayou-themed authenticity far past the Disney-styled notion of a “theme” and “place.”

As RDR photographer Liz and I were walking in, a man leaving the restaurant said some flattering things about Hillbilly’s. Sounded as if we were in for a treat of what was described to us as “Southern Creole” food. Having left Louisiana eight years ago, my access to this style of food was limited here in Oklahoma. I was very much looking forward to trying it out.

Our waiter, Josh, was a friendly, tattooed fella who asked photographer Liz and I if we had been  to Hillbilly Po’Boys & Oysters before. No, we had not, we replied.

Josh proceeded to tell us about the menu items and while it was lunch, neither of us was famished, so we skipped the appetizers, listed as “snacks” on the menu. These included Horny-Toad Fried Oysters, Oyster Nachos and Crawfish S.O.S.

Bluegrass and mountain music blared over the speakers as we settled on our choices – I settled on the Mack-Daddy’s Muff, a hearty muffaletta-styled Po’Boy sandwich that Josh suggested. Salami and roast beef, along with Jarlsberg and mozzarella cheeses. As a side I got the soup of the day – chicken and rice.

Liz, on the other hand, chose the Ellie Mae’s Grilled Veggies Po’Boy  which had marinated grilled eggplant, mushrooms, and onions, roasted red pepper hummus, olives, cucumbers, tomatoes, greens and Feta cheese.

And on the side, Liz’s order came with Fried Taters, a side that is described as “seasoned and fried, just the way Granny used to do it!” And this would be one of our favorite items on the menu.

I noted a well-stocked bar (as it had been when I frequented this location when it was the Asian-themed Pachinko Parlor) but ended up getting a Frostie Root Beer, while Liz got a “Mexican Coke.”

Once we got our food and started taking pictures, owner Bryan Neel (who owns the S&B’s burger joint across the street) came over and introduced himself. He described Hillbilly’s as offering a “crossbreed” of Southern and Creole cooking.

Liz first tried the Fried Taters and said they were delicious. Indeed they were. As Liz said: “They’re salty, spicy and yet not too crunchy.” In fact, they were addictive.

Meanwhile, Liz was taking to her Ellie Mae’s Grilled Veggies Po’Boy, adding that the ingredients were “tender and juicy.” And this, from a veggie sandwich!

My Mack-Daddy’s Muff had a variety of tastes and flavors hitting my taste buds. And they were good. The buttery bread mixed with the savory meats and delightful cheese flavors. And being a mustard fan, I appreciated the addition of the creole mustard. And you know, the cherry tomatoes and tangy pickles were the best I’ve ever tasted!

As we were enjoying our meal (and there was a decent lunch crowd in the place), a couple sat down and told Josh this too was their first time at Hillbilly’s. “I saw it on Yelp!” the woman told the waiter. Apparently word is getting around about the new joint.

Bryan insisted on Liz and I trying the bread pudding and are we ever glad he did.

As Bryan brought it out (“That’s heaven right there,” he said), served on a miniature iron skillet, it looked absolutely rich and decadent. And yet, it wasn’t as heavily syrupy and sweet as it looked. It was actually a more subtle and appealing sweetness that made it all the more appealing. Liz even noted a subtle savoriness in Hillbilly’s signature dessert, adding, “It’s got that ‘middle-of-a-cinnamon-roll’ type of flavor.”

Was the lunch for two worth it? You bet! For under $30 it was a bit of deal, when you get right down to it.

Hillbilly Po’Boys and Oysters is open Monday through Saturday 11 a.m. until 10 p.m. Follow them on Twitter at twitter.com/HillbillyPoBoys

Hillbilly Po’boys and Oysters on Urbanspoon

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About the Author

Andrew W. Griffin

Andrew W. Griffin received his Bachelor of Science in Journalism from John Brown University in... read more

About Red Dirt Report

Red Dirt Report was launched July 4, 2007 as an independent news website covering all manner of news, culture, entertainment and lifestyle stories that affect and interest Oklahoma readers and readers outside of our state. Our mission is to educate, promote civic engagement and discourse on public policy, government and politics. Our experienced journalists provided balanced in-depth coverage of news stories that affect Oklahomans. Our opinion/editorial stories come from a wide range of political view points. We carry out our mission by reporting, writing, and posting news and information. read more

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