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Review: Los Chilaquiles

Louis Fowler / Red Dirt Report
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The problem with far too many restaurants these days is instead of focusing on the few knowledgeable dishes that could make them realmente genial, many eateries seem as though they’d rather offer up a great number of items that are, for the most part, patently mediocre at best, in an attempt to please everyone.

It’s an issue of quantity over quality, one that seems to hold many places back a few steps. It’s a problem that the recently opened breakfast joint Los Chilaquiles, 2631 SW 29th St., has managed to—gracias a Dios—avoid completely; they only do one thing and they do it better than anyone else in the city: chilaquiles, chilaquiles y mas chilaquiles.

For the woefully uninitiated or typically uninformed, chilaquiles are a wholly traditional Mexican breakfast dish, typically made up of refried beans, eggs and/or chorizo, salsa and queso fresco as well as tortilla chips left over from the night before, mixed and mingled into the mash-up and served steaming hot. Add a little Valentina for a kick if you’re nasty.

(Now, to keep it real, not all regions do it the same way, so what I grew up on might be slightly different than on what you did, holmes, so chill.)

Only a few places in the Metro get this dish right, but Los Chilaquiles seems to have practically mastered it, offering four or five variations to suit most, piling them high on a plate whether you’re on your way to work or working off a hangover before hitting bed—I’ve there both times and there’s nothing quite like a abundante servicio of this morning miracle meal to guide you on your way.

A friend and I stopped in on a warm Sábado por la mañana, sleep barely out of our eyes and stomachs brutally empty. As I mentioned earlier, the menu was, thankfully, a small affair consisting of a few different styles of chilaquiles, “hot cakes,” and plenty of absolutely fresh, made on the spot “jugos naturales.”

After a few minutes of quiet reflection and deliberation, my friend ordered the huevos al gusto revueltos con chorizo a la Mexicana ($7.99)—basically scrambled eggs, Mexican-style—while I went ahead and doubled-downed with the chilaquiles verdes con arrachera ($8.99) with a tall glass of the “verde” natural juice ($6.49).

Delivered in just a little over five minutes, there are few things more welcoming so early in the morning than that big plate of chilaquiles pornographically laid bare in front of you, the scent of freshly cooked eggs and spices just wafting seductively into your sinuses…it’s better than any cup of coffee as far as I’m concerned. But wait until you taste it, ese.

But first, my desayuno amigo’s scrambled eggs were very taut and seasoned lightly enough to deliver just the right amount of heat without being overpowering. The chorizo was rich and made culinary love with the eggs like they were soul mates of taste, the chiles adding a bit of surprising zing here and there. The rice and beans, while plain, were still a welcomed addition to the meal, as were the slices of day-old toasted French bread as opposed to the typical tortillas you’d find at most places.

This goes doble for the green chilaquiles with pan-fried skirt steak that I was blessed with. While the steak was a bit stringy, it was bathed in a seasoned skillet flavor that has obviously carried the specter of the meats before it, salty and juicy and an absolutely unnecessary but definitely decadent topping to the main course.

Los Chilaquiles has obviously refined their recipe for chilaquiles in a rare way where they seem to value the utilitarian use of the tortilla chips in the dish over the other ingredients, crafting an almost unique fusion of traditional chilaquiles with a bachelor’s concept of “morning-after nachos,” the chips lounging about in a suspended state of defiantly crisp and extra absorbent, beautifully allowing the Mexican crema and queso fresco to rest and gently melt on top, while the eggs and chile verde just sear themselves into and onto the provisions, making for a tense flavor that is hard to stop-gap in-between the obsessive mouth shovelings.

But I would have to take breathers and my verde jugos natural offered a superlative counterpoint in both flavor and nutrition, delivering a healthy and fresh mixture of celery, parsley, cactus, pineapple and grapefruit into a shockingly thick concoction that at first is extremely off-putting, but, with each sip, you’ll start to wonder how you ever lived without it every morning.

Actually, that’s kind of I feel about Los Chilaquiles is general: how did I ever live without it? In a city that’s full of one fly-by-night hipster dive opening and closing with repetitive frequency after another, it’s good to see a quiet little joint, a morning sanctuary of edible sorts, that’s not afraid to hold on to the culinary traditions of a vaunted past while still doing their own thing. And, incluso más que eso, doing it better than anyone else. ¡Cómpralo ya!

Los Chilaquiles
2631 SW 29 St
Oklahoma City, OK 73119
Phone: (405) 601 6313

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About the Author

Louis Fowler

Güicho. Gadfly. Chicano. Choctaw. Cristero. Freelancer. Leftist. Activist. Vilified. PKD....

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About Red Dirt Report

Red Dirt Report was launched July 4, 2007 as an independent news website covering all manner of news, culture, entertainment and lifestyle stories that affect and interest Oklahoma readers and readers outside of our state. Our mission is to educate, promote civic engagement and discourse on public policy, government and politics. Our experienced journalists provided balanced in-depth coverage of news stories that affect Oklahomans. Our opinion/editorial stories come from a wide range of political view points. We carry out our mission by reporting, writing, and posting news and information. read more

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