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FOOD REVIEW: El Primo Loco

Louis Fowler / Red Dirt Report
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You ever notice when you’re cruising around with your homies, looking for a place to eat, no one ever says, “Hey, you know what sounds good? Flame-grilled chicken with a side of roasted onion bulbs!”

And it really is a damned shame, because the most underrated style of cooking poultry, in my charred opinion, is pollo asado al carbon estilo Monterey; all them succulent cuts of chicken just soaring and searing over a constantly nurtured flame, every puff of smoke from the soaked woodchips and glowing charcoal just adding bite after bite of desperately divine flavor, singeing deep inside the meaty musculature in a way baking or frying could only ever wish to achieve.

It’s an artform that has been dutifully mastered and regularly practiced in the world of Latin cuisine for ages, serving up blackened juicy birds from the más grandioso steakhouse in all of Brazil to a humilde chicken-shack on the Southside of Oklahoma City—specifically speaking, El Primo Loco, 3601 S. Western Ave.

There’s no way you can miss the polla gigante facing the road, a proud puffed-up gallo of no loyalty to his own brethren, crowing to passersby to “Come on in and make a meal of mis sobrinos y primos! I’ll make you a good deal, holmes!” It’s a peck and call that I heard like a sunrise serenade, napkin tucked into my shirt before I even hit the door, the smell of smoke and onions emanating through the entire neighborhood.

Barrio afortunado.

The post-haste menu is obviously a work in progress, with colored construction paper and markers designating the latest menu options, such as tacos de tripa and an assortment of tortas, but I was wholly focused on that pollo asado al carbon, cabrón. El Primo Loco serves it up two ways: a whole charbroiled chicken, spatchcocked on the plate for $18.00 or, more preferably at this moment, a half-chicken, complete with Mexican rice, charro beans, tortillas, onions and specialty salsas aplenty for $11.00.

A más sabrosa embarrassment of roasted riches, the whole meal set on the table with a heavy thunk. The pollo was trimmed with surgical precision, allowing for as much of that savory meat as possible to be enjoyed either by hand or, for the more civilized among us, with a handful of fresh flour tortillas to cradle these babies gently to mouthland.

(Louis Fowler / Red Dirt Report)

The tender white meat was moist and filled with a darkly rich flavor that, with each bite, purposefully exhaled a hidden smokiness like it was on a 15-minute break. That, along with the perfectly seasoned and impeccably charred skin just begging to be stripped off and worn as a mask, this meal is prueba positiva chicken don’t get no better than this.

As for the sides, the charro beans were an absolute dream one wouldn’t want to wake from, the delicate slow-cooked pintos swimming in a spicy soup, aided by such wading taste preservers as onions, tomatoes and peppers, while the Mexican rice, with its slight hint of chicken broth flava, was also a treat, a tangy tomato base that kept each kernel tightly packed with its familia.

If that wasn't enough, I just can’t get enough of those plump and sweaty fire-roasted onion bulbs, moist and juicy and packed with enough of a folic acid-drenched bite that it’s easy to treat it and eat it like a slices from tearful apple when no one’s looking, lest they judge you for your habit. I understand though.

With all that being said, the next time you’re cruising with your homies, now you can be the dude that loudly and proudly offers up the idea of not only the treat that is pollo asado al carbon, but getting it straight from the pollo genios down at El Primo Loco. ¡Cómpralo ya!

El Primo Loco
3601 S Western Ave
Oklahoma City, OK 73109
Phone: (405) 635-1924

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About the Author

Louis Fowler

Güicho. Gadfly. Chicano. Choctaw. Cristero. Freelancer. Leftist. Activist. Vilified. PKD....

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About Red Dirt Report

Red Dirt Report was launched July 4, 2007 as an independent news website covering all manner of news, culture, entertainment and lifestyle stories that affect and interest Oklahoma readers and readers outside of our state. Our mission is to educate, promote civic engagement and discourse on public policy, government and politics. Our experienced journalists provided balanced in-depth coverage of news stories that affect Oklahomans. Our opinion/editorial stories come from a wide range of political view points. We carry out our mission by reporting, writing, and posting news and information. read more

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